Monthly Archive for November, 2008

Sao Tomé: Michel Cluizel vs. Neuhaus

When taking you first steps in single origin chocolate bars, it’s always good to kick off with at least two bars so you can experience and compare how different tastes can be. It gets a little more adventurous when you start exploring various brands from one single origin, take for example the Michel Cluizel “Vila Gracinda” 67% and the Neuhaus “Sao Tomé” 74%, both from Sao Tomé, an island republic in the Gulf of Guinea and birthplace of African cocoa in the 19th century.

In general, Sao Tomé can be a bitter and very cacao-ish, often starting aggressive, right on to the senses, and offers little in the way of subtle undertones on the palate. It comes mostly earthy, smokey sometimes enriched with sharp red fruits, cinnamon or vanilla.

In this Sao Tomé “battle of the bars” I myself detected big differences which is very fun. The Neuhaus to my experience came rather flat: opening up with a very smokey and earthy palate, hard on the cacao, that could be typical to Sao Tomé, but it doesn’t compensate elsewhere on the taste curvature. It ends rather blunt only hinting some tones to vanilla or acids, some presences of all to subtle aromas that leave you guessing with not much pleasure. I think Neuhaus achieves to offer more fun for buds with their Venezuela Ocumare.
The Michel Cluizel was playing in a whole different league, I hadn’t expected anything different him being one of the master chocolatiers producing wonderful bars with a story. Although from the same origin, to start with Cluizel is more picky on his beans and only uses the ‘Vila Gracinda’ plantation yields. The Cluizel also starts with the very chocolatey Sao Tomé aromas but swiftly brings in very fruity undertones. Then the creamy bar perfectly starts working towards very mature aromas in coffee, some dark kind of sugar and other indulgent aromas, but all masked in a sumptuous experience that easily makes you grab for another chunk.

All in all a good learning experience in both evaluating cacao percentages, which I actually even haven’t talked about here, and the importance of the whole bean-to-bar proces that makes a creation outstanding or just plain good. But it maybe also hints the difference between brands that have dedicated control on their production process, and brands that source from big professional chocolate makers…

What is Belgian Chocolate anyway? Pt.1

“Belgian Chocolate”, what is it anyway? I would like to start a few posts on this to many a magic and indulgent combination of words.
Sure our country has a bespoken heritage and history when it comes to chocolate, but why really is Belgian Style different from other countries? I think there are 2 things that need some explanation: what is that Belgian heritage about and what should the word ‘chocolate’ cover. Already the word “chocolates” leads to a lot of confusion.  Chocolates, chocolate, confections and pralines are really not the same, though in English I feel these subtle differences aren’t always put clear. But let’s keep that for later and focus on Belgium.

How Belgium became ‘Chocolatic’

The Spanish not only brought cacao beans from the Americas to our continent, but were also responsible for the spreading through all of their conquered regions too. The first traces of cocoa were found in Ghent in 1635 in the Baudeloo abbey, only many years after Belgium was annexed with the Spanish imperium.

The strange link between Belgium, a small country for way from the equatorial cacao belt, and chocolate is not one to be too proud of at first from a historical point of view. The Belgian chocolate industry took off during the mid 1880’s, when the grasping king Leopold II of Belgium colonized Congo, a territory eighty-six times bigger than Belgium itself.
With the blood spilling colonization and despite the warfare, Belgium entrepreneurship got itself an easy way in to Africa’s cocoa grounds and were able to maintain the cocoa importing connections. With a steady and stable import of raw cacao, local business had the opportunity to find creative and innovative ways to develop chocolate products and businesses.

From the beginning of its introduction in Belgium, chocolate was considered a perfect gift. Even before the colonization of Congo, a Belgian company Berwaerts, was the first one to sell chocolate as tablets, pastilles, and figurines since about1840. Also world famous Callebaut was founded in that era, in 1850 by Eugenius Callebaut as a brewery in Wieze, where the company still has its HQ. Other Belgian chocolate companies soon were created and chocolate lovers will recognize a few names amongst Meurisse, Callebaut, Neuhaus, Cote d’Or, Jaques, de Beukelaere, Victoria… all together with lots of small brands that have gone away.

With the 1958 World Expo in Brussels Côte D’Or tempted everyone’s taste buds through a big event, through which Belgium’s reputation in chocolate became even more known worldwide. Especially for the world fair, Cote d’Or launched a brand new product, “Dessert 58″. This was a praliné filled milk chocolate and it was a hit right from the start!

Before we further explore the worlds of “praliné”, chocolates and “pralines”, in a next post I will dive deeper in which contemporary brands are putting Belgium on the map, and how they do so.

Cacao Chemistry. Films by TCHO pt.2

The second movie out of 3 that is available from TCHO and BoingBoing TV, takes us further in the development process of cacao beans. Beware, in this film we are moving far away from exotic locations and plantations, and leave fascinating flora and cultivation culture outside.
In exchange we make a technical journey into mighty machines and minuscule molecules.  Former NASA engineer and co-founder Timothy Childs shows us what machines are used at the factory, how some of them are ‘hacked’ together with NASA tape and grinders from Indian restaurants, and how omnipresent camera’s increase the geek factor of TCHO. Enjoy the show!

Great books on New Chocolate and Cacao history

I finally received the 2 great books on chocolate I ordered at Amazon. I bought “Discover Chocolate: The Ultimate Guide to Buying, Tasting, and Enjoying Fine Chocolate” written by Clay Gordon. Accompanying this book focusing on “the new”, I also ordered “The True History of Chocolate“, authored by Sophie and Michael D. Coe.

Mouthwatering Books on Chocolate.

Amongst the huge pile of chocolate books available, these clearly stand out since they are not limited to recipes again, but dig deeper to the roots of this wonderful fruit.

“Discover Chocolate” touches the new ways of appreciating chocolate, by illustrating a lot of insights, connoisseur’s experiences and debunking myths along the way. US based Clay Gordon is a ‘chocolate critic’, who also runs the fun website The Chocolate Life.com. A creepy though inspiring secret I’ve found out about Clay Gordon and me is that I myself got the chocolate virus almost at the same moment as he did, in the early nineties, but on top of that through the same brand: Chocolat Bonnat!

It was another book, Real Chocolate from Chantal Coady, that led me to the “The True History of Chocolate“. Chantal Coady is a real crusader of chocolate: in the late 80’s she launched the “Campaign for Real Chocolate”. She is also the owner of Rococo Chocolates, a specialty chocolate shop in London, and on top of that co-founded The Chocolate Society. Her mouthwatering book contains exquisite cacao recipes, she introduces also a little the background of chocolate, but eventually referred to “The True History” book.

Both books are mouthwatering, have great photos and illustrations, and both the design and size are very elegant. Happy reading!

The Paris Collection

Here is a small preview on all the bars I collected at the Salon du Chocolat 2008 in Paris. It was a great trip with lots of learnings. And with the “Original Introduction Pack” the overall total of bars I bought surpassed the magical One Hundred! I’m finalizing the little brochure and label on the packing, and I think it looks good so you will get your samplers soon.

The Paris Collection

Domori and Pralus came out with a whole new and fresh packaging design. Unfortunately, several brands I was looking forward to were not present or on sale at the fair at all: Amedei, Valrhona, and none of the US ones I hoped to catch a glimpse of, and Coppeneur only showcasing their hot chocolate products.
Then again, in the excitement of the action I forgot or overlooked to get Maglio and other small brands in my bag. Bonnat however just launched 3 new Porcelana based bars I found inspiring. The samples we tasted were very interesting, so I bought all of these 7€ priced bars.

Overall I returned with a lot of the good ol’ know brands, and little new. But I’m going to Cologne soon to discover a new shop with a unique offering. I’ll be posting more “Paris Collection” pictures soon!