Tag Archives: Sao Tomé

Exploring fresh harvested cocoa pods from Saõ Tomé & Principe

A short while ago a friend went for a trip to chocolaty Saõ Tomé and she totally enjoyed walking through the cacao growing everywhere,… jealousy was not far away, an experience that is still on my bucket list! She was so utterly kind however to fly back some fresh harvested cacao pods and dried beans for me, to share everything cacao straight from the plantation.

I was really looking forward to taste the fresh juice or “pulp” which is often described as really fruity. And boy it did, I shared it with some friends and we tasted mango, lychee, banana, grapes and more all at the same time: now you would really understand why this is the ‘food of the gods’!

Having several of fresh cacao pods in my hands it was above all about really looking how this fruit works on the inside. And now I could finally see and taste fresh all these great aromas, which so far I only tasted in a finished chocolate bar and look at all the different parts. The inner structure is just beautiful and it’s amazing to see how sophisticated this fruit grows!

See for yourself, and thank you Helena (@imkedielen)!
I’ll pick up the Claudio Corallo bars soon :)

Report: Choqoa Tasting Event 10.2

Report: Choqoa Tasting Event 10.2

Wrapping up our second tasting this year, again it’s an evening to which I can look back loaded with sensations and discoveries that are changing people’s mind on dark origin chocolate. In our beautiful loft-lounge style setting I introduced the cacao harvest & production process, to show people how careful this pretty sexy tree needs to be treated to give us such fine chocolate. Every tasting session is somewhat different and the Q&A was focused around Belgium not being ‘The Promised Land’ of chocolate (anymore), the scary variety of substances in chocolate bars, en tips to keep and store chocolate.

Choqoa Chocolate Tasting Events
Chocolate and its plethora of surrounding topics always make a great conversation starter, so pretty soon we had a good vibe, getting us open to enter the tasting part. After 4 bars only, people were amazed already by my broad offering and the variety in tasting sensations, even ‘less appreciated aroma’s’ were adding to overall discovery experience. :)
Noteworthy where also organic Pacari, the recent Akesson’s and absolutely the handcrafted Amano Jembrana, which I exclusively got from the USA directly from founder Art Pollard, with a big help from Martin at SeventyPercent as well in London.
These treasures aside I also showed a bloomed bar of Willie’s (don’t know how that happened actually), and wowed them with the Michel Cluizel ‘Grand Lait 45% milk bar’ (‘Is this milk chocolate?!’), shared unroasted and roasted cacao beans I received from Pralus, and put the cherry on the cake with the Pralus 100% as the usual über chocolate experience!

You can tell it was fun if people say they would come back for another tasting session, hope to see you next time as well!

Continue reading for details on the tasted bars…

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Sao Tomé: Michel Cluizel vs. Neuhaus

Sao Tomé: Michel Cluizel vs. Neuhaus

When taking you first steps in single origin chocolate bars, it’s always good to kick off with at least two bars so you can experience and compare how different tastes can be. It gets a little more adventurous when you start exploring various brands from one single origin, take for example the Michel Cluizel “Vila Gracinda” 67% and the Neuhaus “Sao Tomé” 74%, both from Sao Tomé, an island republic in the Gulf of Guinea and birthplace of African cocoa in the 19th century.

In general, Sao Tomé can be a bitter and very cacao-ish, often starting aggressive, right on to the senses, and offers little in the way of subtle undertones on the palate. It comes mostly earthy, smokey sometimes enriched with sharp red fruits, cinnamon or vanilla.

In this Sao Tomé “battle of the bars” I myself detected big differences which is very fun. The Neuhaus to my experience came rather flat: opening up with a very smokey and earthy palate, hard on the cacao, that could be typical to Sao Tomé, but it doesn’t compensate elsewhere on the taste curvature. It ends rather blunt only hinting some tones to vanilla or acids, some presences of all to subtle aromas that leave you guessing with not much pleasure. I think Neuhaus achieves to offer more fun for buds with their Venezuela Ocumare.
The Michel Cluizel was playing in a whole different league, I hadn’t expected anything different him being one of the master chocolatiers producing wonderful bars with a story. Although from the same origin, to start with Cluizel is more picky on his beans and only uses the ‘Vila Gracinda’ plantation yields. The Cluizel also starts with the very chocolatey Sao Tomé aromas but swiftly brings in very fruity undertones. Then the creamy bar perfectly starts working towards very mature aromas in coffee, some dark kind of sugar and other indulgent aromas, but all masked in a sumptuous experience that easily makes you grab for another chunk.

All in all a good learning experience in both evaluating cacao percentages, which I actually even haven’t talked about here, and the importance of the whole bean-to-bar proces that makes a creation outstanding or just plain good. But it maybe also hints the difference between brands that have dedicated control on their production process, and brands that source from big professional chocolate makers…

Neuhaus Venezuala Ocumare 71%

Neuhaus Venezuala Ocumare 71%

A while ago I passed by a local Neuhaus branch and for fun decided to jump in and have a look around. I noticed they had a bar collection of origin flavours I wouldn’t expect at this typical ‘pralinier’ brand, so off course I was rather curious to get their story. It turns out Neuhaus is offering an origin range with also a Sao Tomé, a West Africa and a Trinidad. They do so since 2005 at least but I hadn’t noticed them yet, then again the visibility is rather low at Neuhaus.

Neuhaus Venezuala Ocumare 71%
(more packaging photos on Flickr)

What is well done on this bar is the packaging: it opens like a booklet, and comes tied in with branded ribbon. Once unwrapped the packing reveals a bar foiled in yellowish paper. It’s one that clearly stand out from its competitors.
Ocumare de la Costa, a town near the Venezuelan “chocolate coast”, is a spot that delivers well-fermented Criollo with lots of delicate high notes. Local family-run cooperatives are harvesting some of the finest organic cacao in the world and the ‘Ocumare’ is the type of cocoa bean that gave Criollo its reputation they say.

For the bar itself, that is designed in bite size chunks, the texture is thick, smooth but not creamy, with a soft & munchy bite character that complements the luscious nature of the cacao. Aromas come one after another and hints nuts and cream, strawberries and has a clear ending that closes a modest but decently complex profile. This unobtrusive tasting experience makes this bar addictively easy to eat. Neuhaus (had) created a mild and very accessible origin flavour that doesn’t come too bitter at all, maybe some might discuss on the aftertaste.

All in all, I think this first Neuhaus origin bar was a nice discovery, and when the Ocumare wasn’t an immediate punch in the face, I surely may check out Neuhaus’ other flavours and buy some bars next time I walk by their store.