Tag Archives | Steve Devries

The New Wave of Chocolate Keeps Trending. Will You Ride It with Us?

When I started to write about my passion on chocolate back in 2008, it was because I wanted to share with all my friends, and their friends, what chocolate could really taste like. But also because something new was knocking at the gates of cacao heaven.
Some new brands where showing up on selected shelves. It wasn’t new wrappers for an old story, but genuine new approaches to appreciating cacao flavors, production scale and technique, nourishing a new philosophy on chocolate. All this time later it has become much more tangible and palatable.

And I believe it’s only just starting. To date, as far as I would judge, there are two big trends that are currently at work reshaping a new world of cacao.

1. Small-scale artisan chocolate.

There is definitely a new class of chocolate makers. They are small scale, small batch, open for improving, and cherish an open relation towards the sourced cacao, ideally with the farmers beyond. They elaborate a process and fit the cacao into it.

I believe the vision was – somehow surprisingly, then again not really – ignited in the US, by the likes of Amano, Partric, Rogue Chocolatier, Theo, Askinosie, not to forget Steve Devries… who have been inspiring Fresco, Mast Brothers, Ritual, Dandelion, WoodBlock, Madre and some more.

These brands all with their own stories are spreading to inspire in turn new European brands,  in growing regions like Naive, BojesenRózsavölgyi Csokoládé, and on the other sides of the world starters like Australian Bahen, Danta in Guetemale and even a Marou in Vietnam.

I have had the luck to share several days with some of these new chocolate makers on a cacao tour in Costa Rica. Their backgrounds are very different, from software engineers to winemakers, but one thing keeps them together: making great chocolate in the first place. Origins and limited editions come and go, led by availabilty and quality.

2. Locally produced origin chocolate.

On the other side we also see chocolate companies supporting local production, as a counter movement for the past century. A new way of putting sustainability into chocolate production. Chocolate has been typically a “disrupted product” from the view that stakeholders for growing cacao ‘there’ and those producing ‘here’, where having no relation at all.

Brands like Pacari, Amma, Madecasse, Daintree, MenakaoSibu, Grenada Chocolate Co have been paving ways and are all contributing to this new philosophy. Providing work, knowledge and pride to the local community, it’s stands for a different approach on sustainable thinking in the world of cacao. Their position is more complex than those mentioned above, here people prevail.
They are less to focus on artisan scale and origins, but envision more human & community driven values, driven and supported with the fine production of top quality cacao.

What’s next?

New micro trends are rising already. However, the goal isn’t to provide and divide all available brands in this post, sorry if I haven’t mentioned your favorite brand. Please share your comments on this post if you like to.
But it’s absolutely a key thing to know that cacao and chocolate are moving forward, that the bars you taste are not one-day hit wonders, and that people are passionately putting their hearts and hands to work for sharing wonderful cacao tastes with us.
I hope you will support and encourage the new wave of cacao. Keep it rolling, by appreciating the wonderful chocolate bars that are coming your way.

 

 

The Fruit of Costa Rica

As said I went to Costa Rica with an open book, no expectations, just an extra big sponge under my preverbial cranial hood to soak it all up. From the first day it was subject to unexpected information, however all the more relevant regarding my first ‘food of the gods’ experience.

On Saturday, Steve voluntarily took some of the early arrivers to the vibrant fruit market and showed us around through the various colorful stalls, exposing a wealth of fruit known and unknown to me. The usual mango I had turned out to be unlike any mango I had before, and the cainito was unlike any fruit I ever saw. There were varieties of pineapples, guavas, papayas and limes, fruits with flesh or pulp, with seeds or juice. A contest of deliciousness in flavors unknown!

This extremely tasteful start of the Costa Rica tour triggered a first reflection on appreciating cacao, and more specific chocolate bars. What is the relevance of reviews that focus on listing a series of references to what we know. What use in describing a food to taste like apple, peach and mango if everybody may have a different experience and reference to that flavor? Or even doesn’t know the fruit. I’d love to point out a bar has hints of cas or limon dulce, who will tell me wrong where I live.

In extension of these philosophical meanderings, it reminded me that the places where cacao grows and where chocolate is eaten are far away from each other. Another disruptive thought on appreciating chocolate as we know. Well, just some ‘food for thought’ here, but it intrigues me.

Steve warned us, at the end of the week you will merely know what you don’t know. So what are your thoughts on appreciating and reviewing food?

Costa Rica finally changed my relation with chocolate.

When I ran into the chocolate tour in Costa Rica organized by Ecole Chocolat, I didn’t really have an idea of what to get out of it. I just knew I had to go badly, and so I did.
When the tour kicked off the first day, we all got to talk a bit about our goals and ambitions for the trip.
To that I replied that I was in Costa Rica to find out what Belgian chocolate really is (pun), and secondly to stop the “platonic” part of my relation with cacao.

Costa Rica. On the Chocolate Tour
You may be enjoying the thing you like as much as you want, read books on it, do activities around it, and some more. But at a given moment you’ll get that itch that makes you go to the true source. To understand a tiny bit more what it really is that you like so much. To get a different angle. To reinterpret why you love it, and why it’s fun. Finally embracing cacao physically and mentally shaped my ambitions.
After 10 days in Costa Rica, I come back from a succesful ‘de-platonizing’ experience, and I now know what I don’t know yet. And even if I did not have any particular expectations, this trip exceeded all of them, and I will share it as much as I can with as many people.

Through some following blog posts, photo and video, let’s take you to the fruit of the gods. Thank you Ecole Chocolat for the great tour, thank you Steve Devries for being the geyser of knowledge and inspiration, and all the enthusiast people for the never ever ending talks.

And thank you cacao for being here, the food of the future. Pura Vida!

Crushing My Passion, all the way to Costa Rica!

I’m crushing my passion. Steven ‘minorissues’ wrote it a year ago. Gary Vaynerchuk confirmed it (well, his book did). And some hundreds of Facebook Fans, Twitter followers and people who attended a Choqoa Tasting event continuously fuel that passion.
I think it’s been pretty great so far, but far from enough…My first blog post said something about cacao plantations; well that’s where I’m going soon! It’s time for the next level of Choqoa.

Choqoa. [photo By Corey'sWorld]
[photo by Corey'sWorld]

I’m seizing the unique opportunity to join an international program to explore cacao in Costa Rica with Ecole Chocolat. Led by one of the grand icons of fine origin cacao, Steve Devries, we will tour with a small group through different locations:

A week long adventure will take you to the historical roots of cacao growing during harvest. Not only will your chocolate making benefit from a much better understanding of cacao cultivation and processing but you will engage in spirited dialogue on the future of fine chocolate flavor.

On many occasions people ask me where I want to go with Choqoa. The answer is always that I can’t tell. Eventually it’s not me who decides. It’s where my passion leads me, or more correct: the way all of you keep responding to my passion. That’s why I keep on crushing it as hard as I can. Costa Rica will certainly give new directions and inspiration to share.
And I’m looking forward to shake hands with Gary Vaynerchuck tomorrow too on the Phare conference.

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